A Ton Up and Pushing the Boat Out

I will be returning to the UK soon for several months to welcome baby no. 2 on board, so there was again a small window to get some climbing in this afternoon at our local crag, St. Montan.

Matt and I top roped a couple of local lads on Mono 4b, Dr Ding Dong 4a and Les petits trous 4a. Then for some fun! Wanting to push the boat out, I led Le bide 6b cleanly and then Pat Hibulaire 6b. This was just the ticket, sh0rt and punchy (each with a small dyno) and gave me a good idea of what to expect higher up in the grades.

Maybe one more outing before we leave, but a good way to celebrate my 100th post.

Spring sport climbing

Just spent another very pleasant hour or so at the local crag at St. Montan. Lovely sunshine, great routes and very relaxing without all the normal faff and time-wasting.

Again, we just drove 15 minutes, walked 2 minutes and then got on the climbs. This was handy, as I didn’t have lots of time to spare, and neither did Matt, so it was two good routes and then back in time for lunch.

I lead both routes this time, which were Galactica 5b and le Dièdre de la Terreur 5b. What was really enjoyable was the variety in the two routes, which were only a metre apart. Galactica was steep and burly, but with great handholds, whilst le Dièdre de la Terreur was balancey in the first half and then with bolder laybacking in the top half.

There’s still nothing like trad climbing, but I’m really enjoying sport climbing here with the obvious attractions of good weather and lack of stress. It’s also giving me more confidence for improving my trad grade. More on that to follow.

Quick sport climbing hit

A nice spot for some climbing

Matt and I headed to St. Montan again the other day for a fix of climbing.

Only takes 15 minutes to get there, and we enjoyed short burst of routes in the unseasonably warm spring weather (now disappeared).

From the top of Perlin Pinpin 5c

Very refreshing to be able to turn up in jeans and t-shirts and get plugged in on the rock. No need for a scrap of technical clothing! Bit weird to be back on rock after running around for four weeks with ice axes and crampons…

Routes were Les aromates 5b, Le grand pilier 5b, Perlin Pinpin 5c.

Very nice.