First climb on gritstone

Eventually Sam and I will have an epic – a good epic – after our recent inauspicious attempt on Peak limestone.

I was up for some gritstone action, despite my unfounded suspicion of it, rather like sandstone, so we headed off to Black Rocks, a set of  crags with a massive amount of character and history.

The merry men, sheltering from the rain in a handy cave at the top of the climb

It can be easy to underestimate gritstone, as it requires a much different style to climbing on other rock types – big round breaks and parallel cracks. I wanted to drop down a grade or two, but took a shine to Curved Crack HS 4b, so couldn’t resist. A lot of the climbs below Very Severe or so tended to be of a traditional character (i.e., dirty, green chimneys that you have to squeeze, squirm and grunt up – also known as thrutching), which I wanted to avoid.

This, in a way, is the essence of climbing – seeing an inspiring line and getting on it, regardless of the grade (or almost). It was great for my state of mind, as I have been a bit off the boil recently.

Sam after a successful second

As for the climb, I placed some cams, which went into the parallel cracks beautifully, and after a bit of a think towards the top, swung round onto the vertical wall and rather ungracefully pulled myself over the top.

Unfortunately, by this point the rain set in, which seemed to create suddenly a magical layer of slimey mud on the surface of the gritstone, rendering its unique friction quality useless. We had a look at a Very Difficult [check out this pdf for an explanation of what a VD climb is] climb round the corner, but the climbing had turned from inspiring to horrible.

Hope to be back, though!

Rain on gritstone = mud, basically

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