Three Cliffs Revisited

Josh getting ready for the first route of the day

It was quite a day of climbing yesterday, as I headed back to Three Cliffs Bay on the Gower with Josh. However, little did I expect to walk away, having lead (clean onsight) the two classic Very Severes on the crag, Scavenger VS 4c*** and Arch Slab VS 4c**.

Abseiling off Arch Slab

We warmed up on Perseverance HS 4b*, which felt thin to me on the second, but I quickly got into the groove by leading Left Edge HS 4b to its left. Josh then went for the big one, Scavenger, which is a great line in a stunning position, and said to be one of the best climbs on the Gower overall. However, I took over from Josh after he got about a third of the way up, hampered by running out of quickdraws and suffering from a stitch.

Into thin air

Despite some inner turmoil, I quickly reached Josh’s highpoint and then it was into the unknown. The route gets three stars for a reason, so there was enough protection and holds, and being a combination of crack and slab, there were plenty of options. The final section was the highlight for me – the footholds ran out suddenly, so it was a case of using the remaining crack to layback, which with the exposure and position, made it extremely exhilarating.

Watch out for the rockpool below!

Josh then made light work of Quartz Corner HS 4b and I was left pondering whether to tackle Arch Slab, which I had intended to do originally instead of Scavenger. The crux move is stepping out onto the apex of the arch, which took me some time to complete, as I summoned the resolve. Once committed to the slab, which is suspended over a rock pool in a very exposed position, the climbing was fairly technical and a case of keeping calm and relying on technique to the top.

It was a great feeling to pull up onto the belay stance and I never would have imagined completing two classic VSs at the start of the day.

Otherwise, it was another sociable day, as we were joined by a group from West Glamorgan University who were enjoying a day of climbing and relaxing by the sea. They abseiled into the void from Arch Slab, which looked great fun.

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3 Responses to Three Cliffs Revisited

  1. Pingback: Photos from Three Cliffs « When Men and Mountains Meet

  2. Glen says:

    Nice blog and photos… I been trying to encourage people to show off climbing photos of Three Cliffs Bay on 3cliffsbay.co.uk ….. Check it out

    • Simon says:

      Thanks, Glen. I’ll bear that in mind next time I’m on the Gower, which I hope will not be before too long! All the best with your blog – looking good so far.

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